Issue #42 | My Dream F/W Coat Closet
An outerwear special. Plus a few Paris food & drink recs.
I love all my coats like God loves all his children. From my vintage eBay field jacket to the priceless sheepskin my dad handed down to me, they are the highlight of my wardrobe.
As a thought experiment, though, I imagined what I would do if, say, my apartment burned down and I had to start from scratch. How would I rebuild my coat closet? What would I replace? What would I rethink? (Not much, it turns out.)
I came up with a list of ten coats and jackets, from light to heavy, denim to puffer. Money was no object in this experiment, within reason, but many similar coats can be found secondhand on eBay, so I encourage looking there too. In the end, my dream fall/winter coat closet looked a lot like my current one, with a few exceptions and upgrades.
1. OrSlow 1960’s Type 3 Denim Jacket Vintage Wash
Ryan Gosling’s stylist Mark Avery says if he had to wear one outfit for the rest of his life it would include a Levi’s Type 3 trucker jacket. The problem is, the really good ones—those from the ’60s and ’70s, notable for the absence of side pockets—are hard to find. The ones in the best condition are absurdly expensive (this one on eBay is going for $1,999.99), and the sizes are all over the place.
I looked long and hard for a great Type 3, visiting the best vintage stores and fairs and trying on every one I could find, and eventually just paid less for a decent 1990s eBay find. But if you want to skip that process and go with a loyal Type 3 reproduction, orSlow is a good bet. The Japanese denim brand recreated a vintage wash 1960s Type 3 with traditional side cinch tabs, western-style pocket flaps, and no side pockets. It’s a true trucker jacket, with a short, slim fit, and roomy through the arms.
2. Baracuda G9 Harrington Jacket in Chocolate
I bought this very same jacket sometime around 2017 and it was my go-to fall and spring jacket for years. It’s faded a bit now, and I seared the back when I stood too close to a candle in a bar, but I wouldn’t hesitate buying a brand new one today. Same size, same fit, same color.
3. Rocky Mountain Featherbed Co. Vest in Brick
The burned orange color and leather yoke on this vest makes me want to hop in a car and drive Upstate for a hike, craft beer, and some S’mores. A Japanese company bought and reinvigorated this old Wyoming brand, and while Rocky Mountain has many jackets I’d love to have, this one is at the top of the list.
4. Real McCoy’s Field M-65 Early Model
There a lot of good M-65 Field jackets on eBay, but for a brand new recreation you can break in and grow with, you can’t miss with Real McCoys.
5. 45R Indigo Dekoboko Tenjiku 908 Tyrolean Jacket
Noah Johnson’s recent takedown of chore coats for GQ really shook me up. It’s not that I’m a huge chore coat guy, but I never really questioned their place in my closet. Since that article, though, I can’t help but notice how freaking ubiquitous they are.
45R’s 908 Tyrolean Jacket is a good way to opt-out of the chore coat discourse while still getting a lot of the benefits of one (a mid-weight, versatile jacket, great for layering). 45R does incredible things with indigo, and the materials are so soft it doesn’t seem possible.
6. Cohérence ‘Al’ Trench Coat Navy
I hate raincoats. I do. I have one from Rains, and it’s fine, but the way they trap heat and how they’re just useless when it’s either too warm or too cold means that I only end up wearing it a few times a year. With an unlimited budget I’d opt instead for a nice trench coat instead, like this one from Cohérence I found at the store BEIGE in Paris a few weeks ago. It’s a gorgeous coat, with raglan sleeves, a removable blanket liner, made in Japan from gabardine in a rich navy as deep and dark as the sea.
7. De Bonne Facture Grandad Coat Undyed Harringbone
There’s something about a top coat that gives me a little extra swagger and confidence. I have two—a Donegal tweed one from Buck Mason, and a camel corduroy from Drake’s—and I wouldn’t give either of those up. But starting fresh, I’d opt for this sweet Grandad Coat from de Bonne Facture.
8. Drake’s Wool Raglan Overcoat in Grey Prince of Wales Check
One top coat is never enough, and if I had to replace my cord Drake’s coat, this would be the one. The large Prince of Wales check pattern is eye catching, and the generous, unstructured fit and raglan sleeves means it’s a perfect coat for layering.
9. RRL Shearling Coat
RRL shearling coats are tough to find. The brand doesn’t always sell them so you have to look second-hand, and they are coveted (and very expensive) for a reason: They’re gorgeous and warm as hell.
10. Vintage Eddie Bauer Parka (or Something Similar)
A winter parka is not something I’d spend a lot of money on. I currently have a cheap navy parka from Everlane, but I’ve been looking for something a little vintage-y, and a lot red, like this ’90s Eddie Bauer jacket I found online at Broadway & Sons (sold now). There are some good ones on eBay, too. Going with something like this—especially in red, which I find hard to wear most of the time—makes dressing for the coldest winter days just a little bit fun.
Travel: Paris Food & Drink Shoutouts
I’ve been meaning to highlight a few great spots Ms. Front of Book and I visited recently in Paris. If you’re planning a trip, bookmark these spots!
Le Bistro Paul Bert: The best restaurant we went to in Paris—a classic, no-nonsense, servers-sometimes-uncomfortably-rude neighborhood bistro with boeuf au poivre to die for
Alluma: Israeli chef Lirin Tal and his wife Noa have created a tasting menu for those who hate tasting menus at Alluma, an elegant Mediterranean-inspired restaurant in the 11th arrondissement (it also offers à la carte). The menu is ever-changing, but expect some of the most creative and inspired dishes you’ve ever eaten—sea bream crudo with figs and crushed pistachios, crab-stuffed tortellini topped with cream of corn—paired with some incredible wines.
Stéréo: It’s funny that the very best glass of wine we had in Paris was the first one we had, an Austrian sparkling white (Meinklang Epic) at this delightful music bar in Pigalle
Bonnie: Dress up and stop by this classy top-floor bar of the S/O Paris hotel for drinks before dinner and the best view of the city
Citrons et Huitres: They might forget about your reservation as they did ours, but that shouldn’t stop you from enjoying oysters and pet nat at this cozy bar before dinner next door at Maggie at Hôtel Rochechouart.
That’s all from me this week. Thank you all for reading. Happy Friday and see you back here next week.
Mitch
Question? Comment? Suggestion? Caught a typo? Email me at mitch.moxley@gmail.com