Issue #5 | Long Live the Air King
Heirloom watches, the timeless style of Marvin Gaye, Wythe New York, and more
Welcome to a new issue of Front of Book. Big thanks to Allan Pulga for his sneaker recs last week.
I just got back from checking out a great new men’s store in the Lower East Side (see item no. 4), which got me excited to talk about style. So let’s get to it.
1. Investing in an Heirloom Watch
My big pandemic purchase was a stainless steel Rolex Air-King 14000, caliber 3000. I bought it in April 2020 as a 40th birthday gift to myself, since, well, I wasn’t going to have much of a party.
I first learned about the Air-King in Esquire more than a decade ago. The one profiled had a blue dial and stainless steel case, and I loved it. It seemed very James Bond-ish. I read a bit about the Air-King’s history: It was released in 1945 to honor Royal Air Force pilots who fought during the Battle of Britain, and had since been considered the watch of aviators. Pan-Am used to gift the Air-King to its pilots.
In 2016, Rolex revived the Air-King with the 11690 (pictured above). The 11690 is bold, with a black dial, a 40mm case, large numbers, and a green Rolex logo with a yellow crown. When I decided to look into buying a luxury watch, this was my target. But as I researched, however, I found I preferred an older and simpler version of the Air-King, the 14000 (pictured below).
I hemmed and hawed a lot before pulling the trigger. It was a big decision. But I couldn’t take my mind off the 14000.
Although the pre-owned watch I eventually bought is only two decades old, it has a vintage feel—minimalist and classic. It’s like something Dickie Greenleaf would wear in The Talented Mr. Ripley. I have thin wrists, so I like its smaller 34mm case size. It looks great with absolutely everything: a white T and jeans, a suit, a knit polo and linen pants (a very Ripley look). It can be worn high and low and everywhere in between.
It’s my everyday watch, my forever watch, and one of the best buys I’ve ever made. Because it’s… me.
Although my Air-King is at the low end of Rolexes in terms of price (it’s what watch nerds refer to as an “entry level” luxury watch), it wasn’t exactly cheap. But I thought of it in terms of an investment of a kind. Watches of premium brands go up in value, but I’ll never sell this one. It’s a watch that will grow in both sentimental and inherent value as it becomes part of the story of my life.
Investing in a luxury watch isn’t for everyone, but if it’s something you want to consider, keep these pointers in mind:
Focus on a legacy brand. You can’t go wrong with a classic Swiss watchmaker like Rolex, Audemars Piguet, or Patek Philippe. Then there are watches that have a historic backstory, like the Omega Speedmaster, which astronauts wore to the moon, or the Cartier Tank, which was inspired by the actual WW1 Renault tank. There are other great brands, but Grand Seiko, Longines, and Breitling are worth mentioning.
Save up. If you’re going to buy an investment or heirloom watch, there’s no pretending it’s going to be cheap. Entry level luxury watches run between $3,000 to $10,000, and go nauseatingly up from there. Longines has some more affordable pieces, and you can also…
Consider pre-owned. If you’re buying secondhand like I did, stick to a reputable resale site like Bob’s Watches or Swiss Watch Expo. Make sure to call their representatives and ask any questions you have. The sites are legit and they will be super helpful without pressuring you to buy.
Go with something classic. Don’t ask yourself whether you’ll like the watch in a year or two—ask if you’ll likely enjoy it for the rest of your life. If you’re making an investment like this, you want something timeless. So take your time and make sure you get the right one for you.
Take care of it. Luxury watches need to be serviced from time to time, preferably by the manufacturer, and although it can be costly, proper care will mean it will last for generations.
2. Style Icons: Marvin Gaye
A common compliment for someone with great style is that it looks “effortless.” The reality is, effortless style is rarely that. It takes time, trial and error, self-knowledge, and a bit of bravery.
I think, though, there are some people for whom style really is effortless. Marvin Gaye was one of them.
The late R&B legend was known for tailored suits in his younger days, but in the early 70s he went for a more relaxed look—a lot of denim on denim, shearling coats, well-worn french terry sweatshirts, and beanies. These are some effortless looks, and every bit as cool today.
Here are a few inspirational pics:
3. The Blankets From Killers of the Flower Moon
I saw Killers of the Flower Moon the other week, and while there’s a lot to say about the movie, I’ll leave that to the reviewers. One thing that struck me was the incredible set and costume designs.
The Osage, who were among the richest people in the world at the time, had truly unique style. In dressing the cast, costume designer Jacqueline West consulted over thousands of photos and home movies from the Osage. The blankets with which the Osage often draped themselves are particularly stunning. “It’s a power symbol,” West told The Credits. “I felt it was some kind of armor against what is being imposed on them and what’s being done to them. You put it on against the world and against evil, and it becomes a real symbol of that.”
It turns out the blankets were made by Pendleton then and now. They were considered a status symbol at the time, and the production used both vintage and reproduction Pendleton blankets for the shoot.
The Osage reproduction blankets are actually available for sale through Supernaw’s Oklahoma Indian Supply, which is owned by an Osage man named Kugee Supernaw. Check them out here.
4. A New Shop in New York
I just checked out the Wythe New York store on Orchard St. in the Lower East Site. I noticed the brand a while ago on the online retailer No Man Walks Alone, but this is the first brick-and-mortar location.
Wythe was created by Peter Middleton, a former Ralph Lauren fabric researcher. He launched the brand with his simple Oxford shirt designs at a trade show in January 2020. Despite some pandemic-related hiccups, it grew from there.
Inspired by classic American style, Wythe excels at knitwear, super-soft flannel shirts, and a bulky wool overcoats. What really stood out to me was the quality of the fabrics—no surprise, considering Middleton’s background. Middleton, for example, researched flannels going back to the 1930s, and worked with suppliers to come up with the perfect feel and pattern. The effort paid off.
Wythe’s clothes have the look and feel of Double RL, but with the personal touch of a much smaller brand.
5. Weekly Inspiration
If you’ve been following FOB from the beginning you’ve probably got a sense of my own personal style these days. I love the high-low look, mixing and matching formal and casual. It allows room for experimentation, exploration, and creativity.
Parisian Trésor Bofete is an expert at this. He’s especially skilled at incorporating unexpected color to make his outfits pop. Look at that top photo: A relaxed grey suit with a splashes of yellow, pink, blue, and mint green, none of which overwhelm the outfit, all of which compliment it. Parfait.
That’s it for this week. Have a great weekend and see you next Friday!
Mitch
Question? Comment? Suggestion? Caught a typo? Email me at mitch.moxley@gmail.com