Issue #26 | Thoughts and Considerations
Some thoughts, clarifications, and new obsessions after 25 issues of the newsletter
Hello readers,
Last week was Front of Book’s 25th issue since launching last fall. That’s something like a milestone, right? When I decided to do this newsletter I really had no idea where it would go, or if I was actually qualified to write about menswear and style. I love clothes, sure, but I wasn’t necessarily an expert.
Thankfully, the newsletter has gone much better than I expected. For one, I have a blast working on it, and I hope that comes through in the writing. Subscribers have grown at a steady pace; I’ve started to get paid assignments to write about style; and I’m meeting a lot of great people in the world of menswear at industry events.
Mostly, I’ve been able to indulge my obsession for clothing and style and share it with likeminded people like yourselves. I think my original theory holds true: There simply aren’t a lot of places to go for reliable, reasonable, instructive advice on menswear, and I wanted to step into that void.
I have a fun post coming next week (hint: it involves hurriedly chasing down a last minute tux for a special event), but for this week I wanted to take time to reflect on some of the things I’ve discovered and pondered since I launched the newsletter.
Denim Is Back (In My Wardrobe)
For years I didn’t really wear denim. I had a few bad experiences paying way too much for jeans that didn’t quite fit right or wore out too quickly. New Levi’s were utter shit. I preferred the roominess and comfort of chinos. When my beloved light wash Kapital jeans fell apart a few years ago, I went through a period where I had no denim in my wardrobe at all.
That is until I started hunting for vintage Levi’s on eBay. I found a pair of perfectly faded 501s from the ’90s, when Levi’s were made in the U.S.A. of high-quality cotton, and a pair of relaxed fit black 550s, also from the 90s. These were game changing—perfect fit, comfortable, sturdy, and inexpensive.
I also picked up a pair of white jeans from Drake’s made of Japanese denim, which are such a nice and versatile addition to the wardrobe. I added to the rotation a pair of OrSlow’s 105 two-year wash, which are inspired by vintage Levi’s, but I sized up so they have a bit more room than my eBay 501s, for variety. Finally, the good folks at the exciting British brand Anglo-Italian sent me a pair of light wash jeans (below) to try out to complete the rotation. I wear all of them regularly and couldn’t be happier. It’s good to be back in denim.
The Search for the Perfect White T Continues
Back in Issue #6, I endorsed Velva Sheen’s rolled white T as the closest thing I’ve found to a perfect T-Shirt. While I still like them, I have to admit that something’s been a bit off from the last few I’ve ordered. The cotton isn’t as soft and the neck is way too gaping. It’s still a nice T, but I’m not sure I would recommend it as highly anymore.
Currently, I’m wearing Aimé Leon Dore’s 3-pack white Ts on a regular basis. They have more of a classic fit with longer sleeves, a tight neck, and snug around the body. As far as undershirts go, they’re pretty perfect, but aren’t cut in a way I like to wear as a primary T-shirt in warmer months.
So the search continues. James Perse has some lovely Ts, but the prices are ludicrous. When the time comes, I’m going to try one of Merz B. Schwanen’s classic Ts. Other recommendations are welcome!
Permanent Style Is Best Source For Menswear Advice*
Simon Crompton launched Permanent Style back in 2007, and is still pumping out invaluable advice and reviews today. The guy’s passion for and knowledge of premium menswear is unmatched—I vet many of my recommendations through what Simon has written over the years.
For a lot of people, PS might go a bit too deep. But if you’re looking for practical advice on how a jacket should fit, how to pack for a trip, which loafers to buy, and pretty much anything else to help build an elevated wardrobe, Simon’s your guy.
(*Other than, you know, this newsletter)
I Was Wrong About Blazers
Way back in Issue #3 I wrote about my struggles with blazers/sports coats. They’re expensive, they never fit me right, I didn’t know how to style them, etc.
But after I did a little homework and found some inspiration, they’re all I want. I currently have one tweed sports coat from J. Mueser for fall and winter, and a couple suit jackets that are casual enough to wear as a blazer. When I put them on, I feel great. My horizons have broadened. I’ve matured. I want more.
Suede Loafers, Where Have You Been All My Life?
My favorite shoes these days are a pair of delicious, unlined snuff suede Alden loafers from Leffot in New York. They fit like moccasins, can be paired with jeans, chinos, or trousers, and just add a little something to every outfit. It was exactly what my footwear collection was missing, and I didn’t know it until I had a pair.
The Only Three Brands You Need
Let’s say you like looking good and you have some disposable income, but you just don’t care enough to spend a ton of time researching clothes and trying out new or higher-end brands. You simply want a few places where you know the product will be good enough, the clothes will fit you well, and when you go out you get the odd “Hey, that’s nice, where’d you get that?” compliment.
For that, the only three stores you need are Todd Snyder, Buck Mason, and Drake’s.*
I keep waiting for Todd Snyder to jump the shark, since it’s gotten so big, but it never does. Each season has its own surprises, and I’m always impressed when I go to the store. Knitwear, trousers, blazers, suiting, shoes, accessories—Todd has it all. The price point is fair and the quality is strong. Just look at the great Sterling K. Brown here in the spring/summer collection:
Buck Mason has you covered for essentials. It does classic Americana amazingly well and consistently for a brand that’s growing so fast. You go here for Ts, sweatshirts, chinos, maybe even a casual blazer or outerwear item. I’ve never regretted any purchase from Buck Mason.
Drake’s is for when you want to up your game. Browse Drake’s Canal St. shop and you’re bound to find a few items that you’ll wear for years. Incredible quality and style. I’ve loved Drake’s for years and still swear by it.
(*Regular readers are probably tired of me plugging these brands. I swear I’m not getting paid, I just think they’re doing great work. But for the sake of staying fresh, I’ll give myself a two-month moratorium on mentioning these three shops in the newsletter. Starting now.)
New York Doesn’t Actually Have a Lot of Great Curated Menswear Stores
This was something that surprised me when I started paying attention: There really aren’t a lot of great menswear stores in the city that offer a curated selection of excellent brands, places like Neighbour in Vancouver or Park & Province in Toronto. There’s The Armoury, of course, but The Armoury is a whole different level since it’s regarded as one of the best menswear shops in the world.
My theory about this is that it’s insanely expensive to have a store in the city, for one, and two, because every brand has a flagship location here so there’s less of a demand for a general menswear shop offering a bunch of different brands. It’s a shame, because those stores are a great place to discover brands you’re not familiar with without having do dig around the Internet to find them.
Lastly, Dress Up at Every Occassion
Seriously, life is short. Wear nice clothes whenever you can, wherever you can. You look great. You feel great. It’s awesome.
Have an excellent weekend.
Mitch
Question? Comment? Suggestion? Caught a typo? Email me at mitch.moxley@gmail.com
