Issue #24 | The Chore Coat Guide
Chore coats galore, the style of “The Gentlemen,” one-of-a-kind Levi’s, Devendra Banhart, and more
Hello readers,
Welcome to a new issue of the newsletter. Last week’s Portrait of a Gen X Dad seemed to strike a chord because it was Front of Book’s most read post by a mile. It just goes to show that Gen X really is the forgotten generation, yesterday’s news, trapped between the dreaded Boomers and the culturally relevant Millennials and Zoomers. Thank you, Andrew Gerrand, for helping illuminate this for us. It’s an untapped market!
Now on to this week’s issue…
1. Chore Coats Galore
It’s that time of year: The weather is unpredictable, fluctuating between warm and cool, and your winter coats are retired for the season but you still need that outer layer to protect against the spring chill. In other words, it’s chore coat season.
Chore coats date back to French farm workers and day laborers in the late 19th century, but you don’t need to be a painter or a farmer or the late photographer Bill Cunningham, who popularized the chore coat on this side of the Atlantic, to sport one. Chore coats have transcended the broader workwear trend and can be incorporated into a relaxed weekend look or a more put together ensemble with, say, wool trousers and a shirt and tie. They’re a great layering item, incredibly versatile, and an essential piece of a modern spring-summer wardrobe.
The classic French workman’s jacket is made from a herringbone cotton twill in a gorgeous royal blue that dulls over time. They break in beautifully and end up so soft they feel more like a shirt than a jacket. And you don’t need to go all the way to France to nab one: Esty has a ton of offerings at fair prices.
There are also plenty of modern brands putting their own spin on chore jackets. The London brand Paynter Jacket Co. was profiled by the New York Times earlier this year. The brand only releases a selection of coats four times a year, announcing the drops through their newsletter to subscribers, who have about a week to order their size and preferred color. Then Paynter will announce the sale to the public, and the rest of the items sell out in minutes.
For a less rushed option, take a stroll down the bourgeoning menswear alley on Canal St. in New York, which I did last week during lunch. I loved Knickerbocker’s Factory Denim Chore Coat in a light wash fisher strip (pictured at top; it also comes in dark indigo). Crafted from a Japanese herringbone twill, this is a go-with-anything coat that’s just different enough to get some attention.
Drake’s, of course, has a hearty roster of chore jackets, in cotton, denim, corduroy, and linen. (Personally, I’m a fan of this one in bleach wash selvedge denim.) Canal St. newcomer Merz B. Schwanen also has a durable unisex jacket in navy, ink blue, black, and khaki, made of a 9.2 oz. twill.
Just remember, these coats should be relaxed fit so you can layer over sweaters and sweatshirts, so size up if you need to. And wear the shit out of them, because they look better over time.
2. The Style of The Gentlemen
I enjoyed Guy Richie’s The Gentlemen on Netflix (Theo James, so damn charming), but no show has made me want to be a British Aristocrat more. The clothing here is incredible: James’ perfectly tailored tweed suits, the modern take on paisley ties, the Henry Poole & Co accessories, the knitwear, the Barbour jackets… it is a seriously stylish show. Check out this Guardian piece on how the show has sparked a surge in sales for upper-class fashion.
3. A Brand I Recently Discovered: Eleventy
This week I was invited to check out the Madison Ave. shop of the Italian brand Eleventy. If you’re looking for a great summer suit or versatile casual blazer (and have a full wallet), this is the spot.
Founded in Milan in 2007, Eleventy is a luxury brand with elements of Brunello Cucinelli (muted colors, traditional cuts), but with a younger clientele in mind. They use fabrics from Loro Piana and Zegna to craft super-soft, handmade jackets (which make up the bulk of sales) and suits. These are items made not for the boardroom, but for elevated everyday wear. I was also impressed with their warm weather knitwear, vests, and light jackets.
4. These Jeans!
This recommendation comes via Michael Williams from A Continuous Lean: the small California brand A Friend Made. They take vintage Levi’s and military jackets and alter them with indigo blankets from West Africa. For the jeans, for example, the blankets run along the inseam, adding a bit more room and unique detailing. Each item is completely one of a kind and sells quickly. They also have a line of found items from Tokyo, mostly of Japanese brands doing traditional American design but rarely found in the U.S.
5. Weekly Inspiration
Devendra Banhart is a celebrated musician and a quirky visual artist. He’s also the living embodiment of the quote attributed to writer Gore Vidal: “Style is knowing who you are, what you want to say, and not giving a damn.”
Every time one of Banhart’s posts appear on my Instagram feed, I can’t help but stop and look for a while. Here’s a guy who looks completely at ease in whatever he’s wearing, whatever he’s doing. It’s partly the tattoos, partly the disheveled hair, but it’s mostly the don’t-give-a-fuck-ness about him. Whether he’s wearing vintage knitwear, a basic T, a Macintosh coat, even a damn dress, this guy has style. His tunes aren’t so bad, either.
Thanks for reading everyone. See you back here next week.
Mitch
Question? Comment? Suggestion? Caught a typo? Email me at mitch.moxley@gmail.com