Hello Front of Book readers,
I have a few longer posts I’m working on, so it’s a short one this week. But it’s something I hope you’ll find useful.
Sometimes diving into the world of menswear can mean encountering a dictionary’s worth of terms that seem intended to either impress or intimidate rather than inform. So I’ve put together a list of some of the most common terms I’ve encountered. Some you’ll probably know, others perhaps not. I’ll add to this whenever I find a new one, and please feel free to contribute other useful terms in the comments.
A Glossary of Terms
Slub cotton: A type of cotton fabric that has a rough, uneven texture with few small lumps and flaws, often used to make T-shirts.
Twill: Cotton twill is a woven fabric that features diagonal lines on the surface, often used for chinos. Twill is durable, tear-resistant, hides stains well, and is easy to care for.
Oxford cloth: This a type of woven cloth used in shirting, thicker and more textured than regular dress shirt fabric, lending Oxford shirts a casual versatility.
Fresco: A type of lightweight fabric made from tropical wool with a porous weave, often to make warm weather suits. “Fresco” is derived from the Italian word “affresco,” which means “fresh.” Fresco suits are light and allow for maximum air flow.
Hopsack: A type of lightweight and breathable woven fabric made of wool, cotton, or other fabrics, used for summer blazers and pants.
Raglan sleeve: A sleeve that extends in one piece to the collar, leaving a diagonal seam from the underarm to collarbone. It gives easier movement than a normal (or set) sleeve and creates a more casual, vintage look.
Herringbone: You probably know this one, but herringbone is a cloth design featuring a geometric pattern, sometomes called a Broken Twill Weave, with a distinctive V shaped weaving patterns of different colors. Often used in suits and outerwear, and named because of its similarities to the bone structure of herring fish.
Houndstooth: A two-tone fabric pattern (often black and white) originally from Scotland. It’s distinct four-pointed shape gave its name, but it has also variously been called “shepherd’s check,” “dogtooth,” and “puppytooth.”
Selvedge: From the term ‘self-edge,’ referring to the self-finished edges on the side of fabric woven on shuttle looms that don’t fray or unravel. On jeans these self-edges are usually white or red and can be seen on the outseam when you roll the cuff. Generally speaking, selvedge denim refers to a higher-quality jean that are sold and worn unwashed.
Jawns/Jawnz: Jawns is a Philly slang term to for, well, pretty much anything (it’s so commonly used now that’s is in the Dictionary as a term “used to refer to a thing, place, person, or event that one need not or cannot give a specific name to.”) Jawnz, however, is poplar among the fashion youths and seems to refer to a particularly cool piece of clothing. (Note: Do not use if over 35 years of age)
Fit: Outfit
Drip: Also popular among the youths, drip generally refers to a nice outfit, but also the way a person puts together and carries said outfit. (Note: Also not to be used if 35+)
Weekly Inspiration
is a style photographer behind the Five Fits With series for Esquire. He shoots some of the most stylish men (and some women) in New York and his Instagram is an amazing source for inspiration That’s all for this week. Thanks for reading Front of Book.
Have a great weekend!
Mitch
Question? Comment? Suggestion? Caught a typo? Email me at mitch.moxley@gmail.com
Thanks for the shoutout!