Issue #11 | Elevation
My new year’s style resolution, a pair of Japanese brands, Vancouver menswear, Drake’s (again), and more
Hello Front of Book readers,
I enter 2024 humbled on the menswear front. Writing this newsletter has revealed to me just how little I know and how much I have to learn. Which, I suppose, was the whole point of launching the newsletter.
When it comes to my personal style, my attention going into the new year has shifted toward tailoring and finely crafted menswear. But I have to admit to myself what I know to be true: My knowledge of tailoring—the styles, materials, history—is abysmal.
I currently own three suits. Two of them are from another era when everything was worn slim, and my body has changed since I bought them anyway. The third is my cotton Games suit from Drake’s, which I love but am at risk of wearing out. I don’t own a single blazer or sports coat and I only have a few pairs of dress pants and dress shirts.
Tailoring is an intimidating area of menswear. And it requires guidance. I found some the other day when I stopped in at The Armoury, an artisanal clothier on Manhattan’s Upper East Side, and stepped into the back room with Kamau Hosten, a designer and menswear expert at the store.
I wasn’t there to buy anything, only to explore and ask questions. I tried on a few off-the-rack jackets and flipped through fabric swatches while Kamau discussed bespoke options the store offered. It was a lot, and it was educational.
And it got me thinking about a defining principal I’ve decided to adopt as I continue to evolve my wardrobe, which is this…
My New Year’s Style Resolution: Does This Elevate My Wardrobe?
As much as I love buying new clothes, the truth is I have enough. I could wear my current wardrobe for years without any meaningful additions. I’m sure most of us could. I have enough pairs of jeans (after a triumphant eBay trawl in the fall for vintage Levi’s). I have more than enough sweatshirts and sweaters. I have enough coats for every season, enough pants for summer and winter, enough casual shirts and workout gear and T-shirts and shoes (for the most part).
So this year, my style resolution is a simple one. Before I buy any article of clothing, I will ask myself honestly: Does this elevate my wardrobe?
I’ve spent too much time and money buying things that are duplicates or slight upgrades of what I already have, almost all of which is in the same aesthetic. What I’m looking for now are great pieces that meaningfully improve my wardrobe in the direction I want to go, which is, in a word, elevated. For me, that means tailoring and accessories.
A crunchy linen summer suit? Yes.
An Aimé Leon Dore hoodie? No.
A pair of suede loafers? Yes.
Another pair of Vans? No.
A sterling silver bracelet? Yes.
Another chore coat, no matter how much I love it? No.
A tweed blazer? Yes.
That North Face Nupste jacket I mentioned a few weeks ago? No.
Does this elevate my wardrobe? A simple but important question.
That’s my resolution. Let’s see if it sticks.
Wardrobe Favorites Part 2: Manastash and OrSlow
Based on that guiding principal, if I were looking today, I’m not sure these two items would meet the criteria. But I love them nonetheless.
The fleece is the Mt. Gorilla Jacket from Manastash, which I bought a year ago from Canoe Club. I hadn’t owned a fleece in two decades, and I loved the high-pile texture, bulky shape, and paneled color scheme of this one. It’s the only splash of purple I have in my closet.
Manastash was founded in Seattle in 1993 by the guy who later created the beloved hemp brand Jungmaven, but like many great defunct American brands it’s now Japanese owned and designed in Tokyo. It’s made of a hemp-cotton blend and has a windproof polyester inner layer that makes it surprisingly (sometimes too) warm in colder months.
The pants are U.S. Army Fatigue Pants from OrSlow, another killer Japanese brand. These are an incredibly durable-yet-soft, perfect-fitting pant that was a welcome edition to my closet. A friend ordered the same pair and found they sat too high at the waist, but they’re perfect my body type (longer torso, lower waist). I can’t recommend these enough if you’re looking for something in between a jean and a chino.
Images by Tiong Photo
Three Cool Stores in Vancouver
I was in Vancouver last week visiting my brother and checked out three great stores I wanted to briefly highlight.
Reining Champ (above) is a Vancouver-born brand specializing in premium athletic wear but also has some great knitwear and other pieces. I picked up a pair of pinstripe wool Ivy trousers for half price (this was before my resolution but would have fit the criteria regardless).
Mintage (below) is a sprawling vintage store on Robson St. that can suck you in for hours. Standout items included a pair of decades-old Red Wing boots, a rack of legitimate Cowichan sweaters, and old school band shirts in excellent condition.
Finally, Neighbour (below) in Gastown offers a curated collection of some of the most pioneering brands in menswear today, including Bode, Sunray Sportswear, Adsum, Our Legacy, and many more. It ain’t cheap, but it’s rare to find this kind of assortment of great brands in one spot.
Weekly Inspiration
Drake’s launched its perennials campaign this week featuring a group of menswear heavy hitters—designers, writers, creators, actors, and more. I love Drake’s, and despite my ongoing moratorium on buying anything from them because I have too much, this campaign has me weak at the knees. Drake’s is just so damn good. I work dangerously close to the Canal St. store and I practically need to be handcuffed before walking in there.
Thanks for reading. See you again next week!
Mitch
Question? Comment? Suggestion? Caught a typo? Email me at mitch.moxley@gmail.com
Wow, Neighbour has some really nice photosets (/editorial), especially in nature. Such a beauty. Thanks for sharing!