Issue #1 | Opening Statements
Pleated pants, layering with denim, J. Mueser, Kim Jong Un style, and more...
Clothes still make me feel like a kid. I love trying on something at a store and getting that hell, yes feeling, and realizing I’m definitely going to buy it even though I probably shouldn’t. It’s the thrill of getting a new garment—whether a Starter jacket as a boy or a new fall coat today—mixing and matching at home with other items of my wardrobe, and then introducing it to the world. For me, that excitement hasn’t faded with age.
I’m not an expert on fashion, but I do spend a crazy amount of time thinking about clothing. That’s why I decided to start Front of Book. My hope for this newsletters is that it will be an exploration for me and you—discovering new brands, trying out new things, exploring and and experimenting with personal style.
And so, welcome to Front of Book’s first newsletter. Let’s see where it goes. The weather here in New York is dipping, the layering months are upon us, and here are five style and menswear items on my mind.
1. The Front of Book Guide to Pleated Pants
A few months ago a friend asked me where he could find a “snazzy” pair of work pants to pair with blazers. Nothing too cheap, or too expensive, but something that would last. When I asked he if would consider pleated pants, he said no way, he didn’t want anything “too on trend.”
It’s no doubt that pleated pants are back. And if you’re used to wearing flat front chinos or jeans, they might seem a bit too experimental. They’re associated with the sartorial excesses of the ‘80s (think Richard Gere in American Gigolo or Michael Douglas in Wall Street). But in fact, there’s nothing trendy about pleats; they’re as classic as they come and stylish men have never stopped wearing them.
Pleated pants are meant to be worn high on the waist, and that might throw you off, especially those of us who came of age in the ‘90s or aughts, when pants were worn way too low (‘90s) and too slim (aughts). High-waisted pants with pleats take a bit of getting used to, but there are advantages: They make you look taller and better proportioned; they’re roomier in the thigh for a relaxed feel even if they look more formal; and they can be dressed up or down, depending on the occasion.
I personally feel more at ease and comfortable in pleated pants than I do with chinos, and I love the up-down look of dressier pants with a t-shirt or sweatshirt and sneakers. I prefer single pleats to double, which look too busy to me. (There’s also a distinction between “forward” and “reverse” pleats, but we’ll save that for another time.)
Here’s a useful guide for the fit of pleated pants.
The Miami Vice—too high, too baggy:
The Dear Leader—Still too high (although, to be fair, not a bad look, Comrade!):
The Cool Guy—just right:
These pants aren’t too high or too low, too loose or too tight, too long or too short. In other words—perfect.
Where to buy: Rota Pantaloni for the nicest dress pants you’ll ever own; Alex Mill for a more casual vibe; Knickerbocker or Todd Snyder for something in between.
2. If I Were Buy a Suit Right Now, It Would Be From…
J. Mueser. The New York-based brand’s bespoke options range from $1,650 to $3,950. It’s most popular suit, The Waverly, is handmade in Naples and starts at $2,750 (which might seem like a lot of money, but it’s not for a custom suit; the made-to-order version of the Waverly goes for $1,950).
The Waverly is a fairly casual suit, with only a lightly constructed shoulder (so no big pads). For fabric, I would go with linen, cotton, or a lightweight wool, with casual options like patch pockets and relaxed pants so I could wear the pieces separately. Something like this one in versatile brown Irish linen:
3. Front of Book Endorses… Layering With Denim
Layering with a denim jacket is so easy, and it adds so much character to an outfit. I do it with a military-style parka or chore coat or throw one over a shawl sweater to make the denim the star. But a denim jacket really shines under a long topcoat or trench, adding a causal element to what would otherwise be a more serious look.
Don’t fear the Canadian tuxedo (above), and here’s one with an outer layer from Buck Mason’s new collaboration with Eddie Bauer:
A few options for a great denim layer:
4. A Brand I Recently Discovered: De Bonne Facture
Speaking of which: How nice would one of those denim coats look with this herringbone Grandad Coat from the Parisian brand De Bonne Facture? The brand’s name comes from a French expression for doing things well. It produces a limited seasonal run of select items that are designed to last. I’ll be checking out DBF’s store in the 11th arrondissement next time I’m in Paris.
5. Weekly Inspiration
Aaron Levine is a design consultant for Madewell’s menswear line, which GQ recently said is “bringing the heat to your local mall.” OK, sure, but it’s his own personal style that interests me. It’s so effortless and easy, and a lot of what his wears he finds for cheap on eBay. His inspirational notes with each post are also a breath of fresh air in our cynical time. I wish I could pull off that hair and beard.
Until next week…
Thanks for reading Front of Book’s first issue. Enjoy the weekend and see you next Friday.
Mitch
Question? Comment? Suggestion? Caught a typo? Email me at mitch.moxley@gmail.com
